And here is the second video from the small series about artisans. This time it's about leather makers - a craft that doesn't exist in Germany and that one would therefore traditionally have to translate as shoemaker. In any case, this is a very nice video about how close craftsmanship, tradition, design and Art lie together!

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Leather goods and design as a craft

For example, brothers Chris and Kirk Bray have been making leather goods for years. They founded Billykirk from Los Angeles in 1999 and learned their craft at a third generation leather manufacturer. A simple leather strap kick started it Shop, a decade later her collection blossomed into other offerings consisting of bags, belts, shoes, wallets, hats and other accessories.

Since relocating their operations to the East, they employ a group of Amish leather manufacturers to produce much of their production line while finishing production in their studio.

Custom production as a trend

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More and more customers not only want individual clothing with a special flair for special occasions such as weddings, opera balls or communion celebrations, which not everyone at the Stange can buy. Other customers attach particular importance to quality or ecological processing of the clothing without harmful substances. Schneider is therefore a Job with Future!

Within the Company Dolzer is an individual made-to-measure suit available from as little as 235 euros. The reason: Dolzer combines the advantages of individual customer requirements and machine production. The latter reduces the working time from 60 to a few hours and thus reduces the price by around a tenth.

In the Onlineshop, customers can also order individual shirts, blouses and accessories from the comfort of their own home without having to get into one of the 14 stores. For this purpose, they must be measured only once, or they can measure themselves.

Individual clothing

Even large companies such as Peek and Cloppenburg rely on customized clothing. In contrast to the specialists, the retail chains measure customers by laser beam in their own cabins. In both cases, the data is sent electronically to the sewing shops, where costumes and suits come in four to six weeks.

Tailors produce perfectly fitting clothes for all conceivable occasions, for fat and thin, for big and small. In tailor workshops and ateliers they process textiles such as wool, synthetic fibres, linen, silk, cotton and leather. In the run-up to the tailoring work, tailors clarify with their customers for what occasion the garment is to be worn and which fabric and colors they prefer. They present material and sample books from which the customers make their Choice can meet.

Craft vs. Fashion design

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Then a suitable cut must be determined. Tailors can either use existing cuts or their own designs draw up. They have a keen eye for what best fits the client's overall image and make sure the garment fits flatteringly. They attach particular importance to the personal taste of the customer. But tailors also take current fashion trends into account when they create their fashion designs. They find out about brand new looks, the modern colors of the season and new fabric collections at national and international trade fairs.

Once the design is complete, tailors take the customer's measurements and discuss the dates for fitting and finishing the garment. Before the actual sewing work can begin, tailors grade the cut, ie they adapt it to the customer's body measurements. This is usually done using modern software on the computer. Then tailors cut the fabric, find the right threads and needles and set up the sewing machine. Depending on what is to be sewn, they operate, for example, blind stitch or chain stitch machines and produce hem, binding, zigzag or felled seams. Sometimes they also sew from Hand.

With attention to detail

They close the side seams, sew darts, put on sleeves, collars and frets, neat the edges and sew the lining. Then they bring clothing accessories such as buttons, zipper and Velcro fasteners, hooks and eyes or snaps. Sometimes also cuffs, ribbons, braids, lace and sequins and other ornaments are applied. It must be precise and focused work, sometimes under time pressure.

When all sewing is done, tailors iron the garment with ironing or hand irons. Be careful to smooth all seams, edges and seams and treat sensitive fabrics such as velvet with care.

Changes and repairs

The garments are tailors ready for the first fitting so that they can make any changes and corrections. Made-to-measure and fashion-fitting garments often require two tamped garments, very sophisticated garments even a third to ensure a perfect fit. Now a lot of patience is required: every now and then seams have to be split again or pockets have to be moved. Once all fit corrections have been made, tailors hand over the finished garment to the customer and accept the payment.

Also the change and repair of garments belong to the task of tailors. They adapt garments to changed body dimensions or tastes of customers and repair damage. For example, they renew the lining of a coat or sew new zippers.

In addition to these creative Tasks Schneider also take care of many commercial and administrative tasks: you negotiate eg with customers, take on the commercial and technical calculations when preparing offers and deal with the business-related correspondence. Over and beyond decide them about the selection of personnel and check the economic one Success your company.

Men's lifestyle on the Internet as a market

Men are still under Marketing-In terms of an undervalued species. Herrenausstatter.de is now generating sales in the tens of millions. The Idea was to sell exclusive men's fashion online merchandise.

Renata de Pauli, the Munich entrepreneur, is a part of the men's fashion. meanwhile created an entire e-commerce universe. Damenausstatter.de and Socken.de followed quite soon as well as the theme shops Golfers Outfit, Bugatti and Burlington.

Lifestyle instead of fashion

With a cool one Onlineappearance, on the other hand, Great Britain's fashion icon Paul Smith is in the running for the new man at PaulSmith.co.uk. One-stop shopping is the motto: men (and also Women) get everything that belongs to the beautiful things in life:

Paul Smith has, among other things, received a music download cooperation with 4radio.com, photo exhibitions, can be viewed online, several blogs are engaged mainly in male lifestyle advice. In addition, on the award-winning side from the shirt to the male handbag, everything is easy to shop.

Prerequisites, education and training

Schneider is a recognized training profession according to the craft code (HwO), therefore, the professional title is protected by law. Training as a tailor takes three years. As a rule, as with all recognized training occupations regulated by the Vocational Training Act or the Handwerksordnung, no specific educational or vocational training is required for training as a tailor.

In addition to the frequently encountered training as a bespoke tailor for men and women, there is also training as a fashion tailor, pattern tailor or tailor for alterations. In contrast to a baker or carpenter, anyone who becomes self-employed as a tailor can do so without a master craftsman’s certificate and possibly even without a journeyman’s examination, since tailors are loud system B1 of the Crafts Code is a craft that does not require admission.

Master

If you still want to make your master, a master tailor is a professional one Further Training according to the craft regulations (HwO). The master craftsman's examination in this admission-free trade is uniformly regulated nationwide.

The craft organizations and other educational institutions offer preparatory courses for the master's examination (full-time approx. 10-12 months). However, participation in the preparatory courses is not compulsory for admission to the master examination. For more information, see http://www.handwerkskammer.de. For such Preparation you can use the so-called Meister-BAföG (http://www.meister-bafoeg.info).

Business start-up soon

The start-up as a tailor usually starts with the entry into the list of the permissible trades For the registration you have to appear in person and pay a fee. With the confirmation of the registration, the commercial registration of the municipality can be made. The commercial office, in turn, informs the Finanzamt, the professional association. There is no statutory annuity insurance obligation for the unauthorized trades, to which Schneider belongs (Annex B1 der Handwerksordnung).

By registering in the list of unauthorized trades you become a member of your competent craft chamber. You must first pay very small contributions to them, but only if the income is above certain limits.

formalities

Founderswho have registered their trade for the first time are exempt from paying contributions to the Chamber of Crafts for the year of registration. For the second and third year you only have to pay half of the basic contribution and no additional contribution, for the fourth year you are still exempt from paying the additional contribution if it is a natural person (not a partnership or corporation) and the annual profit not more than 25.000 euros.

Traders who carry out activities which can be learned in accordance with § 1 § 2 No. 1 of the Handicrafts Ordinance for up to three months belong to either the Chamber of Industry and Commerce or the Chamber of Crafts. They are exempt from the contribution, regardless of which board they belong to, if their trade income does not exceed 5.200 Euro per year.

opportunities

Since there is no mastery, the market entry barriers are also lower for competitors in the tailoring trade than, for example, with bakers or carpenters. In current surveys of the craft chambers, it is shown that the fewest new founders without mastership in the unauthorized crafts can actually live their independence.

Practical experience often proves that the term “master company” is still very important to many customers. Founders without a master's certificate should therefore start their own business, if possible with very special services or an existing customer base.


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